Wuhan duck, a spicy snack originating from the
capital of Hubei in central China, has become popular in Beijing, sold on snack
food streets (Xiao Chi Jie), in supermarkets and by vendors in many residential
areas. Totally different from Peking duck, Wuhan duck is
known for its peppery and spicy flavor. At first, it was only a street food sold
on Jingwu Road and Hanzheng Road, which make up the well-known night food market
in Wuhan. On Gui Jie, the best-known spicy-food street in
Beijing, there are more than 30 shops. "Apart from the first two stores that
opened in 2002, the rest were established within the past half-year," says Wei
Dong, manager of the Da Tanggong store. Using name of the lead character in the
novel/movie/TV show, Lai Shuangyang Food Company promptly got media exposure as
well as customers, who were intrigued by the name. The taste must have been just
as fascinating, attracting many people after-hours to line up for its grub.
"It is handy to eat while on the run. I like the
burning spicy duck neck, which refreshes me. I enjoy the lingering taste," says
Feng Lu, a young girl waiting in the queue. Da Tanggong is next to Lai Shuangyang. Its clean and
bright restaurant, rare for duck stores in Gui Jie, is eye-catching filled with
customers even on weeknights. Many foreigners love to go there, as Wei Dong, the
manager, a jovial man in his late 30s, speaks fluent English. Shuang Jiutang is a newly emerged chain of Wuhan duck
shops. The owner, Sun Liang, a Shaanxi man in his early 30s, opened a branch in
the dense residential area near Tuanjiehu. "Duck neck is a good food to go with
beer. The more you chew its bones, the more taste you will savor," says Bai
Yutang, a frequent customer. Chef Lu Yousheng of Jing Jiutang explains the
different Wuhan duck items available for consumption: Duck foot: Some find the soft and delicate skin of
the duck foot appetizing, and the bone is crispy. Duck head
Triggered by the release of movie and TV drama Life Show in 2002,
based on the novel written by Wuhan-born author Chi Li, Wuhan duck quickly
spread to Nangjing and Shanghai in 2003, then this year moved on to Beijing,
Qingdao, Changchun, Harbin, Guangzhou and Shenzhen.
"In recent years, the most popular red dishes
have been spicy crayfish (mala xiaolongxia), fragrant spicy crabs (xiangla xie)
and spicy fish in soup (shuizhu yu). Now it's Wuhan duck neck's turn," predicts
Sun.
Duck neck
Duck wing & foot
Duck neck: Known as "living meat," it is said to
be the most delicious part of a duck. The meat is tightly attached to the bone,
making it difficult to gnaw - which maybe is its greatest pleasure, besides the
burning and spicy flavors.
Duck head: Few people can
enjoy its true taste. The duck head has five different areas of flavor, which
require a diner to explore it with patience.
Duck wing: This is the first
choice for those who like eating duck; it's meatier than the neck or other
parts.
Duck gizzard & intestine
Duck gizzard: Cooked with mild peppery and spicy
flavors, the fragrance from the broth adds to its lingering taste.
Duck
intestine: With Jing Jiutang's unique cooking method, it is fresh and crisp
without any odd smells.
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